Well, we made it to Eastbourne last night - the last stage in our long slog from Winchester over the past 9 days! We've had rain, glorious views over incredible beauty, met some wonderful people, both natives as well as fellow walkers. We've walked tenderly around herds of very big cows, lots & lots of sheep, a few horses, through an unexpected pig farm and across the tops of many, many high-topped Downs, used since Bronze Age times as forts, signal lights and defense.
Along the way, each of us were also met and challenged by self-doubt and walk-threatening pains and injury. There was a time back in Amberley and th open again in Lewes where Sam really doubted if his right foot and ankle were badly injured. This was the total replacement done in 2014 and the doc warned it might need further work. Was this the time?
It's only four months since Joan collapsed whilst walking in Florida; only six since she had her knee replaced. Was this the long hard hill climb that would trigger that "tightness" in her chest again? Was that tingle in her knee the start of something more? The nagging doubts that rise from deep in our secret catalogue of fear can erode a sense of purpose and ruin sleep so easily. But we talked our fears though with each other and decided that "the worst thing that could happen" wasn't so bad once brought out into the open sunlight of discussion between two people who trust each other implicitly. So we kept walking and here we are.
I'm writing these blogs on a smartphone but our Wi-Fi connections are usually not very strong, so it's tough to upload pictures to go with the writing. When we get home we'll do more.
Wednesday, July 13, 2016
Monday, July 11, 2016
A tough day in a wonderful place
Now we're in Alfriston , a lovely little town on the Cuckmere River that has often been described as a quintessential rural English village. But getting here from Lowes, where we stayed yesterday proved more difficult than expected. No it wasn't the early morning 700 foot climb up from the Ouse River valley. Nor was it the tricky hard balls and chunks of flint embedded in the chalk beds that make up this high escarpment . No today is was the constant fight against the 30-35 mph winds that raged in from our right side, scudding the low clouds across the threatening sky. After 4 hours of almost being blown off the trail, both our left arms felt sore and tired.
But we made it and now are buttoned up and bushed in the 14th century Star Inn, all nested in amongst the very narrow streets of this little place. And making it all better, Joan found an incredible ice cream shop here and treated us to great salted caramel cones. Funny how that flavor has quickly made its way onto the Basic Food Groups list!
We're off to dinner now at the George Inn right across the street. Maybe we'll meet up with Patrick & Beverly there, new friends from South Africa who we first met in Amberley a few nights ago. They're walking for a cause called "Walking for Paws & Claws". Finnegan & Maeve back home in Maine will appreciate that.
But we made it and now are buttoned up and bushed in the 14th century Star Inn, all nested in amongst the very narrow streets of this little place. And making it all better, Joan found an incredible ice cream shop here and treated us to great salted caramel cones. Funny how that flavor has quickly made its way onto the Basic Food Groups list!
We're off to dinner now at the George Inn right across the street. Maybe we'll meet up with Patrick & Beverly there, new friends from South Africa who we first met in Amberley a few nights ago. They're walking for a cause called "Walking for Paws & Claws". Finnegan & Maeve back home in Maine will appreciate that.
Sunday, July 10, 2016
Rainy Sunday in Lewes
After a glorious walk yesterday over from a little old town of Bramber, another of the castle-fortified towns that sprung up from a castle built after the Norman Conquest in 1066, we are taking a lay day in Lewes to miss a walk in the rains and high winds that are soaking the Downs this morning. We have to keep reminding ourselves that this is a "walking vacation" and that there are two distinct & separate words in that phrase . We don't have to be cold and wet if we don't to be so - and we don't!
Yesterday we crossed the Adur river and started up Truleigh Hill to a welcome Youth Hostel that offered hot tea and a sit-down for a bit. Then up and down (lots of them) until lunch at Devil's Dike, an impressive gash in the Downs. There was a busy pub there that seemed to be a favorite for locals out with family and/or dogs. Lots of dogs on the Way. We even met a look-alike of our Finnegan!
Yesterday we crossed the Adur river and started up Truleigh Hill to a welcome Youth Hostel that offered hot tea and a sit-down for a bit. Then up and down (lots of them) until lunch at Devil's Dike, an impressive gash in the Downs. There was a busy pub there that seemed to be a favorite for locals out with family and/or dogs. Lots of dogs on the Way. We even met a look-alike of our Finnegan!
Just after leaving Truleigh Hill, we came across a most unexpected sight. Behind an old building just after the radio towers, Joan spotted two very large boat hulls sitting high & dry. Since it was a good 8-10 miles to the ocean we could see off to our right, beyond Brighton, it did seem a bit strange.
July 9th Bramber to Pyecomb
Today was a great day! We left the village of Bramber about 9. We had a lovely walk along the Adur river for a mile or so and started the steep climb back up to the Downs.
There are really no towns on the trail unlike our walk last year in the Cotswolds. You have to climb down each evening and back the next morning. The whole idea of calling them the "Downs" is really a PR trick. For every down I've counted at least 2 ups, but somehow the "South Ups" doesn't quite have the same ring.
We saw and met quite a few folks today, families and friends as well as a cub scout pack were all out walking on the weekend. Oh I almost forgot there was a 100 mile 1day bicycle ride the entire length of the South Downs Way over 300 riders passing by throughout the day.
The weather was perfect for me cool, windy and cloudy (my hair is just a ball of frizz). The views were not as clear, in fact pretty misty. We could see the sea most of the day. We are more than 2/3 of the way to Eastbourne and the 7 sister's chalk cliffs. We are both doing well 10 miles on walking days seems to work well for us. All ankles, knees and tummys seem to be working and holding up well. We are happy but tired at the end of the day but enjoying each other and this beautiful country.
There are really no towns on the trail unlike our walk last year in the Cotswolds. You have to climb down each evening and back the next morning. The whole idea of calling them the "Downs" is really a PR trick. For every down I've counted at least 2 ups, but somehow the "South Ups" doesn't quite have the same ring.
We saw and met quite a few folks today, families and friends as well as a cub scout pack were all out walking on the weekend. Oh I almost forgot there was a 100 mile 1day bicycle ride the entire length of the South Downs Way over 300 riders passing by throughout the day.
The weather was perfect for me cool, windy and cloudy (my hair is just a ball of frizz). The views were not as clear, in fact pretty misty. We could see the sea most of the day. We are more than 2/3 of the way to Eastbourne and the 7 sister's chalk cliffs. We are both doing well 10 miles on walking days seems to work well for us. All ankles, knees and tummys seem to be working and holding up well. We are happy but tired at the end of the day but enjoying each other and this beautiful country.
Friday, July 8, 2016
Arundel Castle, Chactonbury Ring & walking through a pig farm
Today was quite a day! We awoke bright & early in our lovely Thatched House B & B in Amberley, had a great breakfast thanks to our very gracious hostess, Mary and then took a Southern train to Arundel, about 20 miles away.
Arriving in Arundel, we walked a mile into town and found ourselves at the famous Arundel Castle entrance. Paying our £17 entrance fee, we wandered around the incredibly manicured gardens, spent time in the Fitzalan Chapel, which has been a bastion of the Catholic faith since Henry VIII days. Finally, after a creamed scone & tea in the castle cafe, we entered the public part of the castle itself. The Montgomerie, Fitzalan and Howard families have been close to the throne since 1066 and a good part of English history has in one way or another, been touched by those associated with Arundel.
We left Arundel and started our way eastward on the South Downs Way, reaching Chactonbury Ring around 2, in time for a packed lunch after the long walk up to the wooded trees at the summit. The woods felt oddly quiet and Joan swears that she felt a presence hidden in the dark of the trees.
As we were finishing our break, an old biplane appeared on the horizon and coming straight at us, flew right over our heads, the pilot leaning out of the open cockpit and waving to us as the plane passed right overhead!
We walked along the high open Downs for several miles, the light winds at our backs and just enough clouds to keep it from being too warm. Perfect walking weather! Then as we turned down to head into town, the trail markings stopped appearing and we became uncertain as to the right way. We thought we had spotted our destination town but we seemed to be getting further away with each step. Then we came to a fate warning that we were entering an open range of farm. Boy, were we ever! Ahead of us, on both sides of the path, hundreds of porkers were snuffling and grunting away. Most paid us no mind, but a few big ones eyed us with interest. We just kept walking a little faster. After a half a mile, we finally came to another gate and left our porcine buddies.
Later over diner at the Castle Inn in Bramber, we figured that there must have been some recent re-routing of the Way and maybe the signage folks hadn't caught up yet. Whatever --- the last few miles had little or no directional signs (usually the familiar acorn symbol shows up just when we need it) and the pathways seemed rough and ill-maintained. Hopefully this is just temporary.
Arriving in Arundel, we walked a mile into town and found ourselves at the famous Arundel Castle entrance. Paying our £17 entrance fee, we wandered around the incredibly manicured gardens, spent time in the Fitzalan Chapel, which has been a bastion of the Catholic faith since Henry VIII days. Finally, after a creamed scone & tea in the castle cafe, we entered the public part of the castle itself. The Montgomerie, Fitzalan and Howard families have been close to the throne since 1066 and a good part of English history has in one way or another, been touched by those associated with Arundel.
We left Arundel and started our way eastward on the South Downs Way, reaching Chactonbury Ring around 2, in time for a packed lunch after the long walk up to the wooded trees at the summit. The woods felt oddly quiet and Joan swears that she felt a presence hidden in the dark of the trees.
As we were finishing our break, an old biplane appeared on the horizon and coming straight at us, flew right over our heads, the pilot leaning out of the open cockpit and waving to us as the plane passed right overhead!
We walked along the high open Downs for several miles, the light winds at our backs and just enough clouds to keep it from being too warm. Perfect walking weather! Then as we turned down to head into town, the trail markings stopped appearing and we became uncertain as to the right way. We thought we had spotted our destination town but we seemed to be getting further away with each step. Then we came to a fate warning that we were entering an open range of farm. Boy, were we ever! Ahead of us, on both sides of the path, hundreds of porkers were snuffling and grunting away. Most paid us no mind, but a few big ones eyed us with interest. We just kept walking a little faster. After a half a mile, we finally came to another gate and left our porcine buddies.
Later over diner at the Castle Inn in Bramber, we figured that there must have been some recent re-routing of the Way and maybe the signage folks hadn't caught up yet. Whatever --- the last few miles had little or no directional signs (usually the familiar acorn symbol shows up just when we need it) and the pathways seemed rough and ill-maintained. Hopefully this is just temporary.
July 2 post copied from Facebook
Well it was quite a couple days. Too exhausted yesterday to post, had a great nights sleep and we had a wonderful if very long walk today.
We are now in Cocking about a third of the way to Eastbourne.
Yesterday was a bit of a slog. Some steep and slippery ascents due to the muddy trail. Evidently June was one of the rainiest in quite a while. We had some intermittent rain ourselves but we're dressed for it so no problem. At the top of our climbs we were treated to wonderful views. We met some fun folks but more on that later. It was getting late in the day and we still had quite a way to go and were tired and it had started to rain again. We couldn't get our phone to work to call for a lift so we decided to strike out on our own on a road that promised a pub a mile or so away. We figured they could help us out and get us to our B and B. We finally got to the end of the road and what to our wondering eyes should appear but our B and B. We were home!😀
Lovely dinner and to bed early.
Well it was quite a couple days. Too exhausted yesterday to post, had a great nights sleep and we had a wonderful if very long walk today.
We are now in Cocking about a third of the way to Eastbourne.
Yesterday was a bit of a slog. Some steep and slippery ascents due to the muddy trail. Evidently June was one of the rainiest in quite a while. We had some intermittent rain ourselves but we're dressed for it so no problem. At the top of our climbs we were treated to wonderful views. We met some fun folks but more on that later. It was getting late in the day and we still had quite a way to go and were tired and it had started to rain again. We couldn't get our phone to work to call for a lift so we decided to strike out on our own on a road that promised a pub a mile or so away. We figured they could help us out and get us to our B and B. We finally got to the end of the road and what to our wondering eyes should appear but our B and B. We were home!😀
Lovely dinner and to bed early.
Thursday, July 7, 2016
In Amberley
We've missed a few days because of poor Wi-Fi connectivity out here on the Downs, but we'll try here from The Thatched House in Amberley. This is about 48 miles from Winchester, where we started on Sunday. Since then we did a 14 mile slog up over Beacon Hill into Cocking, we stayed at Moonlight Cottage for the night. Then yesterday it was another long day to Amberley. We're finding the sometimes rough flint-pebbled chalk pathways to be really hard on our feet, even with good Keen (Sam) and Merrell (Joan) hiking boots.
The "sparkle" yesterday for Sam was high up on the open down meadows when we stopped to talk with a local hiker. As we chatted, the low buzz of a small propeller driven airplane grew in loudness and he said: "That's a Spitfire fighter from Goodwood, taking a tourist up for a spin." The plane rapidly came closer and lower to the ground as it approached us and soon the familiar silhouette and unmistakable roar of the big piston-driven Merlin engine filled the air. For Sam, who had never seen one of these legendary planes up close, it brought back memories of The Battle of Britain and hearing Walter Cronkite reporting through the static of the big Motorola radio in our living room in Grafton, MA.
The "sparkle" yesterday for Sam was high up on the open down meadows when we stopped to talk with a local hiker. As we chatted, the low buzz of a small propeller driven airplane grew in loudness and he said: "That's a Spitfire fighter from Goodwood, taking a tourist up for a spin." The plane rapidly came closer and lower to the ground as it approached us and soon the familiar silhouette and unmistakable roar of the big piston-driven Merlin engine filled the air. For Sam, who had never seen one of these legendary planes up close, it brought back memories of The Battle of Britain and hearing Walter Cronkite reporting through the static of the big Motorola radio in our living room in Grafton, MA.
Sunday, July 3, 2016
Extraordinary Day
Extraordinary day! We travelled from Winchester to Exton today and both of us felt terrific. A little rain in the morning and then partly sunny all day, temps in the high 60s.
Highlights included seeing my first ever natural beehive in an old tree about 20 feet up, beautiful scenery and just being with my best friend starting a new adventure.
We walked to the top of Beacon Hill where they actually have a replica of a beacon that used fire to warn of trouble in the 19th century (a la the Lord of the Rings).
We did have a bit of excitement as we reached the bottom of Beacon Hill. It seems the trail uses the same path a herd of dairy cows use to get to the milking barn. It was about 4pm and with full udders bouncing we were surrounded by cows some of them actually running all around us to get to the barn. A little scary but I followed Sam's advice and did not make eye contact and just kept chanting, "nice cow, nice cow". Headed out to dinner now after showers, and naps.
Highlights included seeing my first ever natural beehive in an old tree about 20 feet up, beautiful scenery and just being with my best friend starting a new adventure.
We walked to the top of Beacon Hill where they actually have a replica of a beacon that used fire to warn of trouble in the 19th century (a la the Lord of the Rings).
We did have a bit of excitement as we reached the bottom of Beacon Hill. It seems the trail uses the same path a herd of dairy cows use to get to the milking barn. It was about 4pm and with full udders bouncing we were surrounded by cows some of them actually running all around us to get to the barn. A little scary but I followed Sam's advice and did not make eye contact and just kept chanting, "nice cow, nice cow". Headed out to dinner now after showers, and naps.
Saturday, July 2, 2016
Winchester Hat Fair Day
This is the annual Hat Fair in town, when mimes, trick acts, food stalls and local goods take over the downtown around High Street for three days. We started at the wonderful and awe-inspiring Winchester Cathedral for most of the morning and then walked along the River Itchen to the start of the South Downs Way.
From here it was back to town for some pub grub and them a mid-day much needed nap.
In late afternoon we wandered back to the Cathedral for what we thought would be Evensong choir but found it had been pre-empted by a funeral memorial. Bad luck for all concerned!
Tired of the crowds on High Street, we wandered back alleys and side streets until finding ourselves close to the ancient Westgate and it's Winchester museum, walked up the narrow & quite steep stairs to discover we had the place (and it's docent, Patrick all to ourselves.
Time for grub again, we walked over the the West gate Hotel pub and had some great fish & chips, mashed peas and for Joan, a nice half-pint of ale.
Now back at our hotel packing up for tomorrow. We head for Meonstock about 10 miles away.
Friday, July 1, 2016
We're Here!
We made to the start OK! As I write we're in Winchester, catching up on much needed sleep at the Winchester Royal Hotel. It's 3PM here, July 1 and after enduring a soul-shriveling shuffle & wait, shuffle & wait 2 & 1/2 hour delay at immigration, after arriving at Heathrow Terminal 3 at 8:30 AM - this following an overnight flight on a packed Virgin Atlantic Airbus - we found our hotel up a back road in this ancient old city in a rain burst and collapsed for a couple of hours. Our wonderful niece Caitlin is house/dog/cat sitting for us while we're away and drove us to the bus terminal in Portsmouth.
Now it's time for a bit of exploration. There's something called a "Hat Fair" going on this weekend which we gather from the guy who drove us in from London is a street fair, with mimes, juggling and music from performers doing their thing in the streets. Tomorrow is a rest day here and we will of course check out the cathedral where King Alfred was crowned at the first King of England back in 943 AD. Winchester is also said to be the locus of King Arthur of round table fame.
We'll grab a spot of tea of course and maybe a scone too. Off we go!
We'll grab a spot of tea of course and maybe a scone too. Off we go!
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